Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak, ca 1980.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak first appeared in 1972 and quickly changed the way people thought about luxury watches. Designed by the acclaimed watchmaker Gérald Genta, the original Royal Oak (reference 5402) stood out for two main reasons. First, it was made of steel at a time when most high-end watches were crafted in gold or other precious metals. Second, it featured a bold, octagonal bezel and an integrated bracelet, elements that were both practical and visually striking.

A few years later, Audemars Piguet introduced a slightly smaller model known as the Royal Oak 4100 or 14100 (By the early 1980s, the brand transitioned to five-digit references, and the 4100 became known as the 14100, though it remained virtually unchanged in appearance.). Measuring 35 mm instead of the 5402’s 39 mm, this new size was designed to fit slimmer wrists. In fact, the brand’s 1978 Basel Fair press kit highlighted that very point. Unlike the original 5402, which only had hour and minute hands, the 4100 included a center seconds hand, making it easier to read precise times at a glance.

The 4100ST also inherited the Royal Oak’s signature “Tapisserie” dial, a textured pattern that catches the light and emphasizes the watch’s refined craftsmanship. Over the course of its production, Audemars Piguet made 2,721 units of the steel version.