A Mauboussin platinum ring set with a pear-shaped diamond approximately 2.50 cts.

Ca G/H vs and baguette and facet-cut diamonds, size 16.25, total weight 7 g. Signed Mauboussin, Paris and numbered 44548. Accompanied by a case from Mauboussin.

Mauboussin is one of the many legendary French jewellery houses that was founded in the mid-19th century. The firm flourished creatively during the 1920s and 1930s, and their jewellery from this significant period is sought after by connoisseurs from all over the world. Even today, they continue to produce jewellery with Paris as the base for their operations.

Catalogue number 503

Estimate 100 000 – 125 000 SEK

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A silver and gold tiara with old-cut and rose-cut diamonds

Height of the flowers approximately 30 - 45 mm, total weight 50 g. Accompanied by a fitted case from CF Carlman.

Marcus Wallenberg (1864-1943) gave the tiara to his eldest daughter Sonja Björnstjerna née Wallenberg (1891-1970) when she married Carl Björnstjerna in 1915. Since then, the tiara has been passed down through direct descendants to the current owner.

Various forms of head ornaments have been used for centuries. During the neoclassicism of the 19th century, the art form of tiaras flourished and reached its peak during the First French Empire. Emperor Napoleon's wife, Empress Joséphine, wore striking tiaras that became an expression of this high culture within the art of tiaras. By drawing on antiquity as a model, they took on magnificent expressions and were often part of larger sets together with, for example, earrings, bracelets, and brooches in sets known as parure. The plant kingdom has been a source of inspiration for many tiaras, with precious metals shaped into myrtle, orange blossoms, laurel, murrine, and grapevines. These could be richly set with diamonds, emeralds, various cameos, and pearls. In this spring's major jewellery auction, Bukowskis is proud to present three tiaras.

Catalogue number 554

Estimate 150 000 – 175 000 SEK

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A hardstone cameo necklace and a pair of earrings in gold with enamel and set with pearls.

Width necklace ca 23 - 40 mm, length ca 39 cm, dimensions earrings ca 25 X 60 mm, total weight 77 g. Accompanied by a fitted case. Safety chain 18K gold by A Ambrosius, Stockholm 1867.

During Napoleon's era, it became fashionable to wear large sets of jewellery. The so-called parures from the First Empire were often set with cameos. This interest can be traced back to the contemporary fascination with antiquity, where cameos and intaglios were prized by Roman emperors. By linking to previous empires, they aimed to demonstrate a new expression of power and continuity. Napoleon took an interest in jewellery to assert the political authority he had gained. In forms such as the tiara, there is no symbol more indicative of rank than crowning someone with a jewel. Moreover, cameos represent a pinnacle of craftsmanship and an aesthetic experience among the highest in the art of jewellery. Sometimes, the cameos also featured the emperor’s portrait.

The magnificent necklace in Neo-classical style with cameos that Bukowskis is selling is, according to family tradition, originally a gift from Eugène de Beauharnais (1781-1824), Napoleon's adoptive son, to Princess Maria Theresia von Thurn und Taxis (1794-1874). It was then given by her to one of her ladies-in-waiting, and subsequently passed down within the family.

The cameo at the forefront is striking with its romanticised medieval castle, featuring two unusually designed towers. This motif of two towers might arguably symbolise union in the form of marriage.

Catalogue number 581

Estimate 200 000 – 225 000 SEK

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