Highlights from the Jewellery Department at Important Spring Sale
Bukowskis Presents Unique Jewellery at This Spring's Final Live Auction
The jewellery section at Important Spring Sale offers a dazzling collection of unique pieces spanning various eras and styles. Among the highlights are everything from elegant diamond rings to exquisite bracelets, necklaces, brooches, and tiaras crafted by some of the world's most renowned jewellers.
Selected from the Catalogue
A Mauboussin platinum ring set with a pear-shaped diamond approximately 2.50 cts.
Ca G/H vs and baguette and facet-cut diamonds, size 16.25, total weight 7 g. Signed Mauboussin, Paris and numbered 44548. Accompanied by a case from Mauboussin.
Mauboussin is one of the many legendary French jewellery houses that was founded in the mid-19th century. The firm flourished creatively during the 1920s and 1930s, and their jewellery from this significant period is sought after by connoisseurs from all over the world. Even today, they continue to produce jewellery with Paris as the base for their operations.
Catalogue number 503
Estimate 100 000 – 125 000 SEK
To the object
A Cartier platinum brooch set with old-cut diamonds, Art Déco
Total diamond weight approximately 4.50 cts, dimensions 48 X 22 mm, total weight 13 g. Signed Cartier Paris, Made in France, with French hallmarks and indistinct numbering. Accompanied by a fitted Cartier case.
Cartier is arguably the world's most famous jewellery manufacturer, and since its inception in the mid-19th century, the company has been at the forefront both artistically and in terms of craftsmanship. Many consider the period between the two World Wars to be the company's prime, and during the Art Deco era, the firm excelled, creating some of the most outstanding pieces in the history of jewellery. A Cartier piece from that epoch is essential in a complete jewellery collection.
Catalogue number 507
Estimate 200 000 – 225 000 SEK
To the object
A silver and gold tiara with old-cut and rose-cut diamonds
Height of the flowers approximately 30 - 45 mm, total weight 50 g. Accompanied by a fitted case from CF Carlman.
Marcus Wallenberg (1864-1943) gave the tiara to his eldest daughter Sonja Björnstjerna née Wallenberg (1891-1970) when she married Carl Björnstjerna in 1915. Since then, the tiara has been passed down through direct descendants to the current owner.
Various forms of head ornaments have been used for centuries. During the neoclassicism of the 19th century, the art form of tiaras flourished and reached its peak during the First French Empire. Emperor Napoleon's wife, Empress Joséphine, wore striking tiaras that became an expression of this high culture within the art of tiaras. By drawing on antiquity as a model, they took on magnificent expressions and were often part of larger sets together with, for example, earrings, bracelets, and brooches in sets known as parure. The plant kingdom has been a source of inspiration for many tiaras, with precious metals shaped into myrtle, orange blossoms, laurel, murrine, and grapevines. These could be richly set with diamonds, emeralds, various cameos, and pearls. In this spring's major jewellery auction, Bukowskis is proud to present three tiaras.
Catalogue number 554
Estimate 150 000 – 175 000 SEK
To the object
A pendant/Cross of St Andrew, 19th century.
Enamelled gold set with seven rubies and old-cut diamonds with a total weight of ca 4.00 cts, measuring 55 X 74 mm, total weight 55 g. Accompanied by a Gemstone Report from DSEF German Gem Lab Idar Oberstein.
Ivar Kamke (1882–1936) was a Swedish painter who achieved great success in the early 20th century with his fresh outdoor and portrait painting. Kamke was a collector of the highest caliber, and his beautiful apartment on Engelbrektsplan in Stockholm was filled with exquisite furniture, silverware, and fine art. In the publication "Svenska hem" from 1929, his home is described as "filled with charm - a home where the quiet whispers of legends that have never been told can be heard." Particularly fascinating is the beautiful cross that was part of his collection. The apostle Andrew is considered to be Christ's first disciple and preached in what is now Russia and Romania. In 38 AD, he became the bishop of Byzantium. According to legend, he was crucified in Patras, a Greek city that was part of the Roman Empire, on a cross in the shape of an X - a cross type that is still called an Andrew's cross today. This magnificent pendant from the 19th century, in a historicizing Renaissance style, is believed to have been made in Germany or Austria, and how it ended up in Kamke's collection is truly a story one would like to hear. After Kamke's passing, the cross has been passed down in the family.
Catalogue number 561
Estimate 150 000 – 180 000 SEK
To the object
A hardstone cameo necklace and a pair of earrings in gold with enamel and set with pearls.
Width necklace ca 23 - 40 mm, length ca 39 cm, dimensions earrings ca 25 X 60 mm, total weight 77 g. Accompanied by a fitted case. Safety chain 18K gold by A Ambrosius, Stockholm 1867.
During Napoleon's era, it became fashionable to wear large sets of jewellery. The so-called parures from the First Empire were often set with cameos. This interest can be traced back to the contemporary fascination with antiquity, where cameos and intaglios were prized by Roman emperors. By linking to previous empires, they aimed to demonstrate a new expression of power and continuity. Napoleon took an interest in jewellery to assert the political authority he had gained. In forms such as the tiara, there is no symbol more indicative of rank than crowning someone with a jewel. Moreover, cameos represent a pinnacle of craftsmanship and an aesthetic experience among the highest in the art of jewellery. Sometimes, the cameos also featured the emperor’s portrait.
The magnificent necklace in Neo-classical style with cameos that Bukowskis is selling is, according to family tradition, originally a gift from Eugène de Beauharnais (1781-1824), Napoleon's adoptive son, to Princess Maria Theresia von Thurn und Taxis (1794-1874). It was then given by her to one of her ladies-in-waiting, and subsequently passed down within the family.
The cameo at the forefront is striking with its romanticised medieval castle, featuring two unusually designed towers. This motif of two towers might arguably symbolise union in the form of marriage.
Catalogue number 581
Estimate 200 000 – 225 000 SEK
To the object
A gold and silver brooch/pendant with a sapphire and old-cut diamonds
Sapphire approximately 14 cts, approximately 15 x 15 mm, total weight of the diamonds approximately 5 cts, dimensions approximately 60 x 28 mm, weight 12 g. Chain and case included.
Sapphires have been a source of fascination throughout history. In the medieval period, they were believed to protect against poison, fever, and skin diseases. Among natural gemstone materials, sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness. It possesses a high lustre and is prized for its colour. The combination of iron and titanium causes the blue colour that is most commonly associated with sapphires, although they appear in several colours. Sapphire is the birthstone for September.
<p<
Catalogue number 525
Estimate 200 000 – 250 000 SEK
To the object
