Bukowskis presents the catalogue for this spring’s live auction Important Timepieces, an auction dedicated to the most coveted and exclusive collector’s watches.
The auction features over 120 timepieces, spanning from the late 19th century to the present day, and includes both wristwatches and pocket watches from the world’s leading manufacturers such as Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Cartier, and Vacheron & Constantin.
Selected highlights
Lot number 1081, an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 5402, the original reference that marks the beginning of one of the most influential watch models in modern history.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 5402 is the original Royal Oak reference, introduced in 1972, pioneering the concept of a luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet and an ultra-thin automatic movement. Designed by Gérald Genta, the watch was initially produced exclusively in stainless steel, setting a new standard for high-end watchmaking. Due to its 39mm case diameter, which was considered large for its time, it became known as the "Jumbo".
In 1977, Audemars Piguet introduced the 5402SA, a refined two-tone version combining stainless steel and 18k yellow gold. This model remained significantly rarer than its steel counterpart, with only 876 units sold, numbered from 1 to 951. With serial number 109, this example is an early production piece within the 5402SA series.
This watch is powered by the Caliber 2121, an ultra-thin automatic movement based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920. Measuring just 3.05mm in height, it remains one of the thinnest full-rotor automatic movements ever produced.
Originally sold on March 30, 1979, this watch is accompanied by its original box and guarantee papers, which are rarely preserved with early Royal Oaks. It has also undergone a full service in 2023. As the first Royal Oak reference and a rare two-tone variant, it holds an important place in Audemars Piguet’s history.
Lot number 1095, Rolex Oysterquartz ref. 19019, a rare white gold model from Rolex’s Quartz era
The Rolex Oysterquartz remains one of the most compelling chapters in the brand’s history, emerging during the so-called ‘Quartz Crisis’ that transformed the watch industry in the 1970s and 1980s. While Rolex’s strong brand equity and resources afforded it more stability than many smaller Swiss manufacturers, the rise of highly accurate, affordable quartz watches from Japan still posed a serious challenge. Adapting to this new reality, Rolex chose to innovate, rather than risk falling behind, with the introduction of its own quartz models
Rolex’s foray into quartz technology began in 1970 with the Rolex Quartz ref. 5100, powered by the Beta 21 movement—a collaborative product of several Swiss watchmakers. While this model demonstrated the brand’s willingness to embrace quartz, Rolex was not content to rely on a shared caliber. After years of research and development, the Oysterquartz debuted in 1977, featuring in-house movements Caliber 5035 (Datejust) and Caliber 5055 (Day-Date).
In terms of design, the Oysterquartz was a notable departure from Rolex’s traditional aesthetics. Its sharp, angular tonneau-shaped case and integrated bracelet captured the bold design trends of the era, echoing the influence of Gérald Genta on luxury sports watches.
One of the rarest versions is Reference 19019, crafted in 18K white gold. Although Rolex produced Oysterquartz models for about 25 years, total production is estimated to be only around 25,000 pieces across all references.
This particular example is a remarkable find, having remained within the same family since its original purchase. Even more appealing is that it comes with its original certificate and the correct Oysterquartz Rolex box, a combination seldom encountered in today’s market.
Lot number 1027 is a rare Rolex Daytona ref. 6265 “Big Red".
The Rolex Daytona was originally introduced in 1963 with reference 6239, specifically designed for racing drivers and fitted with a tachymeter scale on the bezel. Interestingly, the model was first marketed as the “Le Mans” before Rolex officially became the timekeeper of the Daytona International Speedway in Florida. This particular example, produced in the mid-1980s, features the coveted “Big Red” dial, with the word “Daytona” elegantly arched in red above the six o’clock sub-dial. Reference 6265 is known for its design with screw-down chronograph pushers and a steel tachymeter bezel. Adding to its appeal, this watch has remained in the same Swedish collection since the late 1980s.
Lot number 1096, A Daniel Roth perpetual calendar, developed together with Philippe Dufour.
Lot number 1096 presents a truly exceptional piece of independent horology, the Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar, reference 2117. Developed in the early years of Roth’s namesake brand, this model represents a rare collaboration with master watchmaker Philippe Dufour. Together, they set out to create the world’s first instantaneous perpetual calendar, with all indications jumping precisely at midnight. The result is a technical and aesthetic triumph, powered by a finely finished Lemania 8810-based movement, crafted to the uncompromising standards of two of the most revered watchmakers of their era. As Dufour recalled, the movement alone took six to seven months to complete.
Roth, a pioneer of modern independent watchmaking, launched his own brand in 1989 after a formative career at Audemars Piguet and Breguet, where he helped revive the latter during the Quartz Crisis. His creations are defined by a distinctive design language, double-ellipse cases, pinstripe guilloché dials, and traditional haute horlogerie finishing, all of which are present in reference 2117. This timepiece stands as both a mechanical marvel and a rare link to the golden age of independent watchmaking.
Lot number 1016 - Rolex Day-Date with Rare ‘Swiss Only’ Onyx Dial
The Onyx dial has in recent years become one of the most coveted variants among collectors. Made from the gemstone onyx, a variety of chalcedony, Rolex chose only the purest black sections of the stone for their dials, resulting in a flawlessly deep, mirror-like black surface. The stark, minimalist elegance of the Onyx dial, when paired with the warmth of yellow gold, creates a timeless and highly refined aesthetic.
The Onyx dial was first introduced with the Day-Date reference 18038 and remained available through the production of reference 18238, which was discontinued in 2000. Since then, Onyx dials have only been offered as service replacements, making original examples increasingly rare. Most dials seen on the secondary market today are service dials, but lot number 1016 is fitted with a rare and highly sought-after 'Swiss only' original dial, making it a particularly desirable piece.
Lot number 1079, The First Lange 1 in White Gold with a Blue Dial
Since its debut in 1994, the Lange 1 has become the defining symbol of A. Lange & Söhne’s modern era. Its asymmetrical dial layout, inspired by the golden ratio, was both daring and harmonious, immediately setting the Lange 1 apart in the world of high horology. Over the decades, it has become one of the most celebrated and collectible timepieces in contemporary watchmaking.
According to correspondence with the manufacturer, they confirm that this is one of the first sold of this model. Reference 101.027, released year 1997, was the first Lange 1 crafted in white gold and the first to feature a blue dial. Although not a limited edition, the blue dial variant was produced in very small quantities, making it a rare and highly sought-after piece. Production of the ref. 101.027 ceased in 2002. In 2017, A. Lange & Söhne introduced the second generation of blue dial models with reference 191.028.
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