Highlights from the Jewellery Department at Modern Art & Design
Iconic jewellery by Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe with provenance from Gunilla Palmstierna-Weiss at Modern Art & Design
This autumn’s Modern Art & Design auction presents an impressive collection of jewellery by the legendary Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe, featuring particularly notable pieces previously owned by Gunilla Palmstierna-Weiss. Both women were pioneering figures in their respective creative fields, each leaving an indelible mark on Swedish art and design. Their works continue to inspire with their unique artistic expressions and innovative spirit.
Torun’s jewellery reflects a strong drive and uncompromising vision, and her timeless designs remain as relevant today as when they were created. Torun redefined the art of jewellery with her minimalist aesthetic, while Palmstierna-Weiss, with her artistry in ceramics and stage design, offers a historical context to Torun's early pieces in this collection.
Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe
Torun was born into an artistic family in Malmö and grew up in a creative environment. Her early jewellery was characterised by simplicity and expressiveness, inspired by African forms and made from materials such as rattan, brass, and leather. In her home workshop in Stockholm, she crafted her first pieces, often while her daughter Pia played in Humlegården park. Her artistic talent was soon recognised by Estrid Ericson, who sold her jewellery at Svenskt Tenn, a turning point in Torun’s career.
After moving to Paris in 1948, Torun found herself at the heart of the international art scene, forming friendships with icons like Braque, Brancusi, and Matisse. Here, she developed her style and achieved international recognition. Torun’s jewellery, often adorned with natural materials like beach stones from Biot, became symbols of her aesthetic—minimalistic but imbued with a powerful and sensual presence that drew widespread attention.
Her collaboration with Georg Jensen, beginning in 1968, cemented her place in design history. With her iconic mirror-faced watch, she became the first female jewellery designer at Georg Jensen, a breakthrough that further established her reputation. Torun’s philanthropic work in Indonesia during the 1970s also demonstrates her deep commitment to giving back to society.
Gunilla Palmstierna-Weiss
Gunilla Palmstierna-Weiss is primarily renowned as a pioneering set and costume designer for the theatre, both in Sweden and internationally. Her creative career in theatre led her to work with distinguished figures such as Peter Weiss and Ingmar Bergman. Her friendship with Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe, which began at the University of Arts, Crafts and Design in the late 1940s, provided essential creative support for both, even as they pursued different paths in art.
Two early pieces from Torun’s career, previously owned by Palmstierna-Weiss, are now featured in Bukowskis’ autumn auction, Modern Art & Design. These silver necklaces reflect Torun’s artistic development and also bear traces of the friendship and artistic inspiration that marked the time she and Palmstierna-Weiss shared at art school. The necklaces, appearing on the market for the first time, represent not only Torun’s early style but also the creative community they both cherished.
The collection will be sold at Modern Art & Design
Viewing November 14–18, Berzelii Park 1, Stockholm
Open weekdays 11 am – 6 pm, weekends 11 am – 4 pm
Live auction November 19–20, Arsenalsgatan 2, Stockholm
Read more about Modern Art & Design
See the catalogue
A selection of items presented at Modern Art & Design
Hammer price
370 000 SEK
Estimate
50 000 - 60 000 SEK
Hammer price
75 000 SEK
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60 000 - 70 000 SEK
Hammer price
30 000 SEK
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40 000 - 50 000 SEK
Hammer price
22 000 SEK
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25 000 - 30 000 SEK
Hammer price
85 000 SEK
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50 000 - 60 000 SEK
Hammer price
14 000 SEK
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15 000 - 20 000 SEK
Hammer price
10 000 SEK
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5 000 - 6 000 SEK
Hammer price
8 000 SEK
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5 000 - 6 000 SEK
Hammer price
6 000 SEK
Estimate
5 000 - 6 000 SEK
Hammer price
30 000 SEK
Estimate
12 000 - 15 000 SEK
